Lost in Chicago (and saved by GPS)
   Jacques le Roux
    Cape Town
    
Our employer was recently awarded a contract which gave us as employees the opportunity to work in Chicago, USA, for a period of three months. Being a radio amateur interested in integrating GPS with ham radio, I was pleasantly surprised to find an affordable GPS receiver for sale in a Chicago computer shop called CompUSA. This receiver was bundled with the Streetfinder moving-map software plus detailed street maps of all major US cities, and sold as a Rand McNally travel product. The GPS receiver looks like a mouse (i.e. it does not have an LCD display), and is used with a laptop computer - the bundle price was $100, but a $20 mail-in rebate will bring down the price to $80, which is quite affordable in my opinion!

I immediately tested the GPS receiver in Chicago on my laptop computer equipped with the Streetfinder software and Chicago street maps, and found it to be very accurate, down to street level. Soon after my purchase, the GPS' selective availability was turned off by Clinton, which immediately gave me a solid accurate fix! Some of my colleaugues also got hooked onto GPS, and 3 of them bought themselves a Garmin 12 each, priced at $150 at the Rand McNally store in Chicago (not bundled with the Streetfinder software though). They were very impressed with its performance, and were enthusiastically testing it on the subway, in trains, in cars and on aircraft!

Our offices were based on the client's site in Ravenswood, a suburb about 6 miles northwest of downtown Chicago. One evening, we were invited to dinner at a restaurant in Skokie, a suburb of Chicago, located about 13 miles northwest of downtown Chicago. The client's representatives left for home about 16h00, in order to prepare for the outing. At 18h00, a leased yellow American schoolbus arrived at the offices to pick us up (we were a group of about 30 people working at the client's offices). We gave the address of the restaurant to the (American) bus driver. We knew that Skokie was located north-west of the offices, and that was also the direction that the bus driver took. We assumed she knew where she was going. After driving northwards through suburban Chicago for half an hour, it became quite apparent that we were totally lost - and worst of all, the bus driver also alluded to this! It was getting dark, it was drizzling and suddenly the Chicago suburbs started to make us feel very uneasy!

One of my colleaugues, Johan Visagie (also a radio ham), fortunately had his Garmin 12 receiver and PC serial cable with him, and I started up my laptop to get to the Streetfinder software (I left my GPS receiver at home that day). We hooked up Johan's Garmin to my laptop, he stuck the receiver out of the bus window, and we waited for a first fix, which turned out to be a bit tricky amongst the buildings along the way. After what felt like an eternity, we got our first fix on the Chicago streetmap, and we could immediately see that we were bypassing the restaurant by several miles - we were heading for the Wisconsin state line!

Johan and myself immediately took control of the situation. The Streetfinder software allows one to search for a street address and plot it as one's destination. Using the street map we determined the shortest route to the restuarant and started calling out directions to the bus driver : where to turn left, where to turn right, and so on. After a while the bus driver got the hang of it, and took confidence in the instructions we were yelling at her. The moving map software was plotting our route with amazing accuracy! Within 15 minutes we arrived at the front door of the restaurant! Our colleaugues (we are all involved in the IT industry) were astounded with this 'miraculous' feat, and could not stop talking about GPS - awesome!

At the restaurant, the client's representatives had already arrived at the restuarant, and started to get worried as we were running late. After our arrival, they soon got to hear about the utilisation of their own GPS system to get us South Africans to our intended destination! It turned out that most Americans are actually ignorant of the GPS system - some not even being aware of its existence!

On the way back home that night to downtown Chicago, we again connected up our GPS system, and were again amazed at the accuracy with which our location on the highways were plotted on the Chicago street map - even to the accuracy of displaying our location on the correct lane direction! In the end we stuck to the highways (with which the bus driver were familiar) and arrived safely back at our apartments.

Jacques le Roux
Cape Town
jleroux@global.co.za

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It all started out at a casual braai, at the end of which we very politely agreed "to spend a few days reformatting". And boy, did we reformat ! Not our computer hard-drives but from the top of our cerebellums right down to the very last neurons of our spinal cords. All reformatted again to take on all those work and city-life induced stresses with a renewed sense of values, appreciation and purpose.Don't be fooled with all the misinformation spread about the Kalahari, it is not a holiday farm, we believe it actually is one huge mental institution, carefully engineered to hide all its secret therapies and treatments, showing and applying it only to those few mentally disturbed mortals entering its realm through the portals at Kutse or Rakops.

If your'e seriously in need of a therapist, go to the Kalahari, the treatment is exceptionally effective, but take care, only those who acknowledge their problems and are prepared to commit to the treatment will survive. In the Kalahari, we learned to appreciate life and all its mundane idiosyncrasies. Little things like water, petrol, shade, a shower, a working vehicle, petrol at a service station and soap that does not melt. All gets new meaning and appreciation in the Kalahari.As two IT professionals, we decided to give the Central Kalahari treatment a chance to rid our minds of bits and bytes for a while. Planning a trip for two through the Kalahari with one vehicle is definitely a first indication that mentally, we were not really in touch with the real world anymore. But, like all good IT people, we decided to forget about realities and see it as a challenge. Impatient as we are, we decided not to select any particular season but just "do it" and "go now".

We started our planning for our trip through the Central Kalahari Game Reserve about three weeks before departure in mid November. This proved to be amble time for preparing the reformatting exercise. The Shell Map of Botswana and Visitors guide by Veronica Rood provided most of our background information on the area, route to take and general conditions and we can recommend it wholeheartedly.We selected a dark grey Isuzu Trooper 3.2 petrol model with dark tinted windows as our safari vehicle (mainly because it is the only 4x4 vehicle we had between the two of us) and a B'rakhah off road trailer with all the accessories you can dream of (we had to choose between the B'rakhah and a Venter 7ft for the trip). The Isuzu Trooper was equipped with an alluminium space saver two-bin system, at the back, supplied by B'rakhah, which took all the vehicle spares and tools we could afford. This proved very handy and can be recommended to be fitted to any 4x4 vehicle. It is huge and comfortably took the spares, tooling and odds-and-ends as recommended by Andrew St.Clair White's 4x4 book, without removing use-full space within the Trooper.

Our reformatting experience started on a mid November night from Pretoria at 24h00 through to Rustenburg and Zeerust. At Zeerust, as the last South African point, we filled up water tanks of the B'rakhah to give us 120 liters of water to last us the whole experience through the Kalahari and Botswana. Then off to the Skilpad gate border post, or more commonly known as Pioneers gate, on the Botswana Border. Here we slept for a few hours waiting for the gates to open at 07h00. Being the first in the queue, we took only about 10 minutes to clear through customs and immediately left for Lobatse. From there to Molepolole. At Molepolole we bought an additional two 30 liter plastic containers from TAJ's Hardware to supplement our existing 220 liter petrol capacity and filled up petrol. With a fuel capacity of 280 liters, we felt comfortable to tackle the Kutse and Central Kalahari. From Molepolole we moved on to Lethakeng. Although petrol is supposedly available at Lethakeng, we found no evidence of that. Lesson number one in the Kalahari: "If petrol is supposed to be there, it probably will not be available". From Pretoria to Lethakeng, our fuel consumption was 6.7 km/liter with an average road speed of about 110km/h. Both the trailer and the Trooper was fitted with Conti-Trac tyres. We took 2 spare tyres along just-in-case, but it never became necessary, not even with surface and tyre temperatures exceeding 60 degrees centigrade. The Conti-Tracs handled the sand extremely well. We deflated all tyres to 1.5 bar after leaving Lethlakane as a precaution and this pressure proved sufficient in all cases but one. This pressure ensured very little expose of the sidewalls to sharp rocks and branches. Only once had we to deflate to 1.2 bar to get us through an extremely thick patch of sand on an incline between Bibe to Xade. Although the Trooper is not fitted with a diff-lock, the tyres kept us going trough the sand comfortably and tyre spinning without grip was no problem whatsoever. From Lethakeng on to Salawe. Then to the Kutse game reserve's entry gate. Here we payed a hefty 70 pula (about R100.00) per person per night for our travel through the Central Kalahari.The B'rakhah trailer was equipped with a 60 liter "Minus 40" freezer which proved its freezing, insulation and off-road capabilities. Never once did we not have a cold beer, cool-drink or ice. The beating it took in terms of rough driving, corrugated roads or intense heat was tremendous, but it operated consistently without any sign of not being able to handle to adverse conditions. A solid-state 150 Watt, invertor on the B'rakhah provided 240V AC to recharge video camera and palmtop computer batteries and proved to be a worthwhile investment. The built-in battery pack and power control panel in the B'rakhah worked very well and not once had we to make use of the generator fitted on the B'rakhah. We were pleasantly surprised with this as the freezer, 2 fluorescent lights and the invertor drew power at night. As a precaution, however, we still un-coupled the trailer from the Trooper at night to ensure that the vehicle's battery were not drained at night. The neatly installed, four "Bosch" 12V outlets on the B'rakhah, were more than sufficient to handle the invertor, 2 fluerescent lights and the odd use of a spotlight.On top of the B'rakhah we had two steel tables mounted and on top of that a huge drop-down tent with double-bed and kitchen unit. Duo to our traditional sexual orientation we also took along one single Disc-o-bed with mattress. So I was very comfortable on top of the trailer on the double bed but my insane partner had a few claustrofobic and torturous experiences on the Disc-o-bed when its supporting pipes started to bent inwards and pinned him in the middle. We figured out that Disc-o-beds would be fine it you don't weigh more than 70kgs. If you weigh more than 100kgs you should consider the Disc-o-beds only if you are a serious masochist.The back door of the trailer provided access to a fully equipped kitchen, which was a pleasure to use. With a build-in double plate gas cooker, we had hot water every evening even before the fire could get started. The cutlery storage sacks, on the side of the B'rakhah's kitchen doors stored everything neatly and in place. It however posed a little inconvenience every time we pulled out the kitchen drawers as the drawers would get stuck against the storage bags. A little space between the storage bags and kitchen drawers should however eliminate this inconvenience.Both the axe and shovel fitted to the B'rakhah came in quite handy during the trip. I now know why the guys from B'rakhah fit the shovel on the left hand side, outside the trailer. After a few "bush-pits" I would not like to get the shovel to be on the inside of the trailer at all.

Two 60 liter water tanks were fitted underneath the B'rakhah alongside a 110 liter fuel tank. This provided us with ample water. During filling of the water-tanks, airlocks continuously prevented us from filling. To eliminate this problem we dropped the nose of the trailer. Filling was then easy and we could fill the tanks to 100 percent capacity. When filling the build in fuel tank in the Trailer, airlocks again posed a problem. We then lifted the nose of the trailer to maximum height in order to prevent under-filling due to airlocks. The trailer ran slightly nose-down when towed by the Trooper but did not give any handling problems due to the excellent run-in brakes on the trailer. We removed the jockey wheel to ensure no ploughing through the thick sand and no scratching when we encounter rocky outcrops. The nose-down attitude of the trailer however did pose an unforeseen problem. Petrol started leaking from the fuel filler cap (which is situated in the front of the trailer) and we estimated that we lost about 15 liters of fuel this way. The fuel cap is of the "breathing" type to allow no pressure build up in the tank. Even with a level attitude on the trailer, the fuel tank design will benefit form a re-think by the B'rakhah boys.

Doubting the usefulness of a GPS, (off course we can read a compass and map), we opted to borrow a GARMIN III GPS from my insane partner's even more insane brother-in-law. Well, we never would have to borrow another GPS again. We both bought ourselves the same model on returning from the Kalahari. It was the most useful devise we had and we literally could not stop using it. Providing information on location, tracking our progress, estimating time of arrivals, fuel estimates, map zooming and other information made navigation child's play. Together with the Shell maps, the GPS always provided the necessary confirmation on our direction and location. Its user-interface is extremely friendly and it took us about 10 minutes of playing (who ever reads a manual anyway) before we could seriously start using it. The GPS worked very conveniently from the Trooper's 12V sigarette outlet when stuck onto the dashboard with a little piece of Press-stick. Its display could be read very well in direct sunlight as well as in the shade. However, something with the build-in backlight went wrong and we could not view it at night without external lighting. Being so light and working off 4 penlight batteries, we also carried it with us when wondering away from a campsite. Its accuracy and built in "intelligence" amazed us. Even on foot, it brought us back to camp precisely every time. We used its back-tracking option and also let it guide us straight back to camp. Worked every time on the spot. It is amazing what comfort was brought by knowing exectly were you are. No guessing needed. No bush-instinct required. No homing-pigeon brain required. No anything required but a decent GPS. It was there and then that we decided that a GPS is a must (Since then I travel almost daily with a GPS and dish out my Co-ordinates to all needing to visit me) Bit back to the Kalahari.The Kalahari we experienced was extremely dusty and extremely hot. For us the heat was at some times almost not bearable. For a few other items the heat was not bearable at all.The Trooper started leaking diff oil almost as soon as we hit the hot sand within the Kutse game reserve. We speculated that either the oil seals in the axle and prop-shaft entry into the diff overheated and started flexing or that the diff oil completely lost its designed viscosity and turned into water. At times the diff got so hot that we could not touch it. This implies that it reached temperatures in excess of 65 degrees centigrade. After browsing through the Trooper's owners manual we saw that SAE 90 oil should only be used with the ambient temperature between 10 and 35 degree centigrade. Now where in the Kalahari could we found that temperature range? But we were in the Kalahari, we only could get out by driving. So we drove. What was amazing was the fact that not only the diff, but virtually all car parts got so hot. It was impossible to touch the dark grey exterior of the Trooper without getting burned. Between Kutse and Xade we started smelling petrol fumes and after inspection, realised that somewhere the fuel in the fuel line overheated and started to boil! Trying to start the Trooper again, we were met by silence. No starter, not even a click when turning the ignition switch. Right in the middle of nowhere. Opening the bonnet was an "ouch" event as it was simply to hot to handle normally. The tyre rims, the tyres, the shocks, the steering wheel, the dash board, every thing just was to hot to handle. The starter fuse, a mammoth 50Amp special type, had blown. Having all kinds of fuses in spare, but not the funny 50Amp starter fuse type, we had to fabricate a make shift fuse from alluminium foil. That allowed us to keep going. After a little brainstorming session on the effect of the heat on ourselves and the Trooper, we opened up a windscreen sunshade and positioned it horizontally on the dash board, over the steering wheel and right up to under our chins. At least we could handle the steering wheel then and reduce the sun on our already sunburnt knees and arms and the dashboard. Only then did we also start feeling the effect of the air-conditioner a little bit. We also opened the bonnet of the Trooper to catch only on the safety catch and drove further with a half-opened bonnet to allow the incredible heat in the engine bay to escape. This definitely improved air circulation and cooled down the fuel piping enough to stop the fuel from boiling.

At Piper pans the Trooper started making rather ugly screetching noises which disappeared when driving in 2x4 without the hub locks locked. Inspection revealed that the front prop-shaft universal pins have been grinded down from about 15 mm diameter to a mere 6 mm ! Obviously the "sealed, maintenance free" units were not designed for the powdery dust of the Central Kalahari. So from here it was only 2x4. We had to keep going.Even with the ridiculous temperatures, the Trooper's radiator did a superb job and not even once, did the temperature gauge moved close to the red area. With the B'rakhah trailer being sparkle white, temperatures on it were not so bad. The build in Minus 40 Freezer kept on providing us with cold liquids. Before the reformatting experience we bought a "cheapie" tyre compressor bought from a chain-store. Never again will I however buy a tyre inflator compressor based on price alone. The little "cheapie" took more than 15 minutes per tyre to inflate them from 1.2 to 1.5 bar. The valve connector further did not worked well and we had continuously to push and hold the valve connector to the valve by hand. With the heat generated by the compressor, the valve tube got so hot that it literally was not possible to keep it in place for more than a few minutes at a time. With the heat of the tyres and the hot sand we had to sit on, I am now convinced to invest in a decent heavy-duty tyre compressor. No more chain-store cheap any-things when traveling off-road.During our preparations we took note of the need to stop grass seeds from entering and blocking the radiator. We found synthetic, not the aluminium, mosquito mesh, like those used on farm door and window frames, the most effective. Sunshade netting restricted airflow through the radiator to much whereas the mosquito netting had no noticeable effect on the airflow. With the rainy season only approaching, we did not encounter a lot of grass or grass seeds and the grass seed mesh was purely and indication of our over-eagerness to be prepared for "whatever might come".

Exiting the Central Kalahari Game reserve from Deception Pan side, we headed for Rakops to replenish our fuel reserves. On average we managed to get 3.5 km per liter while driving through the Central Kalahari Game reserve. The worst fuel consumption was experienced on the stretch between Bibe and Xade were it dropped to about 2.7 km per liter. As rule number one prescribes, fuel was also not available in Rakops. Luckily our supply was sufficient to take us to Lethlakane were we could refuel and buy 3 liters of SAE 90 diff oil.At Kubu island, or known as Lekubu in the local tongue, we were met by a very friendly and informed tourist guide who gave us a nicely prepared rundown on Kubu island's geographical history, religious importance, botanical significance and the do's and don'ts at the camping site. We were impressed by her in depth knowledge and the subtle manner of conveying her respect for the area.The total emptiness of the Makgadikgadi pans, when viewed from the top of Kubu Island, is magnificent. We decided that "looking into the future" at the Makgadikgadi pans is a definite possibility. The feeling of walking on "sacred ground" was enhanced by the eerie and ghostly atmosphere created by the huge African Chestnut trees with their waxy bark and the magnificent Baobab trees between the massive boulders. For those of us without creative muses, Kubu island will serve as an inspiring and creative force. Kubu Island is a definite destination not to be missed when traveling through Botswana.

In the basking sun we decided we were long overdue on a shower and set up an open view shower. The water in the B'rakhah's water tanks were so hot that we showered directly in it. With our Citronella based glycerine soap, we washed away a number of day's dust and dirt. What a feeling. The Kalahari made us appreciate the little things in life. Now, it was a good shower. I never thought it possible to shower in 3 liters of water, but now I know it can be done without leaving even a small bit of dirt behind. Half a liter to wet yourself, half a liter and a washcloth to wash and scrub, two liters to rinse. That's it. Unfortunately I left the glycerine soap in a plastic soap dish in the sun. After toweling and dressing, I found the whole bar of soap to have literally melted. Unbelievable. I never even thought that soap could melt, let alone melting in the sun. After putting the soap dish in the freezer overnight, it returned to its normal state.From Kubu island we traced our tracks back to Lethlakane and headed for the Martinsdrift borderpost. Right at the border post the starter fuse aluminium replacement blew again and again we tried to replace it with aluminium foil strips. After we've blown the fourth aluminium foil strip, we bypassed the fuse box and jumped the starter directly to the Trooper's battery. That kept us going all the way back to Pretoria. Bypassing the fuse box was fine as an emergency aid but had serious risk implications, but, we had to keep going. It seemed that the starter got full of dust and drew more than 50 Amps to overcome the additional friction created by the sand and dust in it.

Dusty, dirty, tired and appreciative we returned home. Botswana and the Kalahari was an experience, it made us aware of the many things we took for granted, we lost track of time, lost track of ourselves and the Kalahari made us focus on the land, the environment, the harshness that surrounded us. It left us with a few impressions. Heat, dust, sun, waterless. However, neither the harsh environment nor poor living conditions reduced the friendly, educated and disciplined manner of the Batswana, the people of Botswana. For a country with so few of the things we take for granted, they are happy, making with what they have and living a good life. Poverty, lack of infrastructure and lack of opportunities do not reduce their sense of pride and is no excuse for pollution, crime, corruption and sloppy governance. Botswana tought us more than we expected. It refreshed our sense of decency and values. It reformatted and refreshed us from the top of our cerebellum right down to the very last neurons of our spinal cords.

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